I am keeping load low when I am not in the bus. For now, I am keeping a box fan blowing air into the power cell to keep the heat down when charging. I am planning to add a pair of 'computer' cooling fans to blow air thru ports that I will cut in the box immediately behind each BMS. The mosfets on the two ANT BMSs like to get hot when charging the batteries.I have two parallel 24v, 100ah packs for a 200ah solar power cell.įrom my monitoring Sunday and after an overnight with light load: This is VERY important to ensure balance across the battery packs and allows multiple, parallel battery packs. NOTE: I ran #4 cable to/from the power cell. When on battery, I am seeing equal power draw from the two, 24v, 200ah packs (8, 3.2v, 100ah CALB cells in each of the two packs that make up my solar power cell). The inverter/charger has automatic transfer switch to run off batteries or shore/gen. As I may have mentioned, at this time, it is just the LifePO4 battery bank, AIMS Pure Sine Wave 6000watt inverter/charger and shore/gen power. This weekend (Thurs-Sun), I completed the installation, connection and initial monitoring of my 24v, 200ah solar power cell. I am refining the drawings and will post pictures when finished. I will be re-wiring the 12v house power source to draw from a fuse panel connected to the 24-to-12v converter that will be powered off of the 24v system.įootprint is approx. So, I am reusing the former SLA battery space for the Lifepo4 batteries. The location is immediately next to the wheelchair lift platform and was occupied by a single 12v SLA battery that was in use for the 12v house systems. The insulation should help with any spikes in heat from when the bus sits and soaks up the sun's rays. It will be OUT of all weather and since it will be in the house area, should require little to no heat other than the interior heat of the bus. The box will be strong enough to support a large person sitting on (or other heavy object) and will be vented on top and bottom to allow for some air flow. There will be padding above the battery bank also inside the two hinged doors. BMS, SCC and Inverter temperature sensors will be positioned according to manufacturer instructions. The batteries will be secured with band clamps around the vertical sides (not on top) so they will all be fastened together not only with the bus bars on top but with good band clamps (3 or 4 around the perimeter of the cells).
The height will be about 20" high from floor level (give or take) accounting for 2.75" of base, 10" for battery, space for BMS and some dead space above the batteries and BMS for the heaving wires and necessary mini bus bars to connect the negative leads to/from the two BMS. The 2 piece lid will have push-to-release latches so no need to have handles protruding. The batteries will rest on a thin layer of padding for minimal vibration absorption. I will set the batteries inside a heavy 'leaf bag' and blow the insulation in around it. The box will be insulated with spray foam insulation. It will have a 2-piece wooden lid that can double as a shelf (or seat) and will be located within 2 feet of the bus bars that attach to the solar electrical system. The 'box' will be mounted to the wall that is shared with my refrigerator and will be screwed into the plywood flooring so it will not move. The box will be nearly at floor level in my RV but it will rest on a 3/4" sheet of plywood sitting on 4, 1.5" square studs spaced about every 4-5" for support of the roughly 150 lb bank (16, 3.2v, 100ah lifepo4 CALB cells). This weekend, I started measuring and drawing up my battery box.
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